How to remove the chuck from a Makita 6408 drill
How to remove a chuck from a screwdriver and replace it with a new one
The need to hang a shelf or a painting forces the home handyman to buy the right tool. We are talking about a drill. No doubt, no apartment today can do without it (especially if we are talking about a reinforced concrete house). Trying to drive a dowel into concrete with just a hammer is idiotic. However, the average person is not even aware of what technical aspects must be considered when choosing a drill. Subsequently, this ignorance can lead to certain difficulties with the restoration of performance in the case of a tool failure.
Makita drills and screwdrivers have proven themselves in the Russian market exclusively from a positive side. First, they have an affordable price. Secondly, in any major city you can always find a service center that will help you with quality and fast repair. Note that the failure of the designated equipment in the vast majority of cases occurs due to improper use.
In a drill with a quick-change chuck you can change a drill bit or other attachment fairly quickly without the need to use any additional tools. Chucks of the first version are divided into single and double clutch devices.
Single-coupling devices have a shaft locking system, which is triggered during tool change. They have a significant disadvantage. very low strength of the elements of fixation, the external parts of the chuck are made of plastic, which greatly increases their damage and breakage of the entire device.
This chuck is not repairable, only replaceable.
On impact models and peoratorov manufacturers put cam products, because their design is more robust. mainly here are used chucks under the key, to securely fix the drill.
Collet chuck was created in the 70s of the last century, its design is different in that in the tail part there are two grooves, and the drill bit should be drilled by reciprocating movements deepening for 40 mm. There are 4 grooves: 2 fixing. 2. to guide the wedges, the cutting tool is fixed with locking balls.
With the classic toothed device, the tightening is adjusted with the chuck wrench that comes with the drill. To unscrew the chuck correctly, you must follow the recommendations of an experienced craftsman, for this look at this
Types of chucks in a Makita drill
Globally, chucks can be divided into two classes:
If we talk specifically about universal, utilitarian models of drills, in the vast majority of cases a quick-change chuck is used. It has a number of advantages.
For example, no special key is needed to change the bit. Everything happens in semi-automatic mode. Of course, when the bits have to be changed frequently (e.g. during repair work at home), it is recommended to use this type of chuck.
A cam-type chuck for the drill involves a tighter grip on the bit. It is tightened with a special wrench. It always comes with the drill. time is needed to change the bit (loosen the chuck, change the bit, tighten the chuck).
Replace a chuck with a new one
Regardless of the type of chuck, it eventually fails. The most common cause is breakage of the retaining jaws. It happens especially often in drills that have a percussion function (a la peorator).
Unsuspecting users swap the cam (stock) chuck for a quick-action chuck. Naturally, the latter can not hold the bit with powerful strokes effectively. As a result, the retaining cams start to break.
To replace a chuck for a new one, you must do the following: loosen the chuck, put a screwdriver in the center of the chuck, fix the shaft (on which the chuck is fixed) with an ordinary open-end wrench.
By applying the necessary force, the chuck is removed.
The video clearly demonstrates the replacement of a chuck on a Makita drill (the principle for all models is the same):
The need to hang a shelf or hang a picture forces the home craftsman to buy the appropriate tool. We are talking about a drill. Of course, no apartment today can do without it (especially if we’re talking about a reinforced concrete house). Trying to hammer a dowel into concrete with just a hammer is idiotic. However, the average person is not even aware of what technical aspects must be considered when choosing a drill. Later on, this ignorance can lead to certain difficulties with the restoration of performance in the case of a tool failure.
Makita drills and screwdrivers have managed to prove themselves in the Russian market exclusively from a positive side. First, they have an affordable price. Secondly, in any major city you can always find a service that will help in qualitative and rapid repair. Let us note that the failure of the mentioned equipment in the vast majority of cases occurs because of incorrect operation.
How to fix the chuck
There are several ways of fastening the chuck. Among them stand out:
One of the simplest and most reliable methods is the cone, which began to be used in the 19th century. The shaft is specially sharpened to the parameters of the cone, which is in the chuck. When the two elements come together, you get a strong connection.
You can see the threads on the main shaft of an electric screwdriver, where the chuck is attached
If we consider the threaded connection, its whole point is to apply the thread to the chuck and shaft. According to the technology, that to connect the parts, it is enough to screw the product.
It is not uncommon to use a fixing screw, which acts as an additional attachment. As a rule, it has a Phillips screwdriver head and the thread is cut to the left. You can only see the screw if you unscrew the chuck jaws as much as possible.
It is easy enough to determine which mounting method is used on an electric screwdriver, to do this you just need to inspect it. If it’s a Morse taper, then the chuck will say something like this 1-6 V10.
This inscription means shank diameter from 1 to 6 millimeters, and B10 is a dimension of cone, which can be found in any mechanical engineer handbook.
There is also a marking on the threaded connection, for example, 1.0-11 M12x1.25. M12x1.25 means metric threads, and the values 1.0-11 tell us the size of the tail end of the bits. If it is a foreign tool, the inscription will be in inches.
How to remove the chuck
There is nothing complicated about unscrewing the chuck of an electric screwdriver, you will need a hex wrench for 10
This impact should cause the chuck to turn on the left-hand thread that attaches it to the shaft.
This is one way, but it is not the only way.
- The cams of the chuck must be fully unclenched, if there will be a screw on the bottom of the chuck, this is an additional attachment to the drive shaft
- Turn the screw clockwise
- Clamp the hexagon and try to turn it sharply counterclockwise
- The chuck should move, but if it does not, you should strike on the end of the wrench with a light hammer
Sometimes none of these methods help, then the only solution is to completely disassemble the tool and remove the spindle with chuck and gearbox from its structure. This construction is placed in a vice and only then the chuck is removed using a wrench.
Some screwdriver models have special grooves that help simplify the task. Unfortunately, this is very rare for modern tools. The problem with the chuck can occur if the tool overheats too much, so you need to give the screwdriver a rest from time to time.
How to remove the old chuck
Usually, chucks that are screwed into the spindle are additionally secured by a left-handed screw for extra security. For this reason, it is necessary to begin removing the cartridge by unscrewing this screw. Before it can be unscrewed, the path must be cleared. To do this, the chuck jaws should be retracted as far back as possible.
If you now look inside the socket you will see a Phillips or Torx screwdriver head in the center of the bottom. The hex key is left-handed to prevent this screw from coming loose. So it should be unscrewed by turning the screwdriver to the right side, preliminarily clamping the assembly in a locksmith’s vice.
It is possible that the screw splines over the years of operation are clogged and to take place their capture with a bit screwdriver, rotating it at the same time should be easily tapped with a pair of pliers or a hammer until you feel the hook.
After removing the left-handed screw, insert the hex. wrench into the chuck and tighten it.
We clamp the free side of the hexagon in the jaws of a vice and with the help of a suitable horn-wrench tear off the nut on the drill with which the chuck is fixed to the spindle of the tool.
After that, you can release the L-shaped hexagon from the vice and by turning it to the left, completely unscrew the clamping unit from the spindle shaft.
How to remove the quick-action chuck from a threaded drill
The particularity of the threaded connection of the chuck with the shaft is the left-hand thread of the fixing screw. This is done in order that, rotating the drill bit and “gnawing” into the material, the shaft simultaneously tightens the chuck mount. Therefore, the answer to the question, how to remove the self-clamping chuck with a drill of this type is simple. you must rotate the chuck, firmly holding the body, in a clockwise direction.
Usually just turning is not enough, you have to tap on the joint, so that the strongly tightened threads parted a little and gave the opportunity to freely unscrew the connection.
Drill chuck: How to change, demount, unscrew
An electric drill is an indispensable instrumental attribute of both home masters and professionals. It is difficult to perform any works related to production of anything, as well as mounting, dismantling and so on without this tool.
Breakdown of a drill, even of a famous brand, eventually happens at some point. And one of the most widespread breakages of this power tool is a failure of a chuck: both key-type and self-clamping.
Causes of drill chuck replacement
Sooner or later any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes unserviceable.
In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch and so on, the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of attachments are attached by a cam-type device.
The cam mechanism is a 3 or 4 cams, through them and the tool is held in the drill chuck.
If the device is quick-clamping, the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if key-type. with a special wrench.
There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in manufacturing for metalworking. All kinds of tools needed for the work are clamped in them.
- Run-out during rotation. This indicates worn cams or front shaft bearings.
- Turning on the shaft. Cause is damage to the thread if the chuck is threaded, or if the tool cone is worn out.
Runout is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows
- The cutting attachment in the drill is not properly held, or some attachment is missing.
- Drill bits jam (if taper is worn).
- Holes become irregularly shaped.
- Drill bit shanks wear out.
How to remove the chuck from an electric drill
The chuck can be fastened to the spindle in the following way:
- Cone mounting. When using a Morse taper (tool cone). In this case the shaft is tapered, well ground and requires minimal force to fit. An example of marking: B10, where B. taper symbol, and the number 10. diameter of the cutting tool shank. Such fastening is used most often with screwdrivers.
- Thread attachment. There are metric and inch threads. If the chuck is marked M13, it is a metric 13 mm thread. If it is an inch. UNF with a ½ inch diameter indication.
However, to protect the user at 100%, the manufacturer of imported drills also fix a chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely attaches it to the shaft.
The screw has a left-hand thread, and very often, when the drill is repaired by inexperienced people, the slot on the screwdriver’s screw is torn away by ignorance, believing that it has a standard right-hand thread. so unscrew it clockwise.
Knowing the design of your own drill, removing the chuck is not a big problem.
In order to change this item you need to prepare the following tools:
- Pipe wrench
- A medium sized hammer. Approximately 400-500g.
- Caliper. 2 or 3.
- Screwdriver with the desired shape and cross section of the blade.
- File or velvet file.
This list shows the minimum set of tools. It is very possible that something extra will be needed during the work.
The connection is screwed
- Unscrew the setscrew counterclockwise.
- Unscrew the chuck in the same direction. If there are grooves on the shaft. use wrench for fixation.
- If the drill is jammed, tap the cams from top to bottom with a precise and light hammer blow.
- Install the device in the reverse order.
Fix the part of the tooling on which the cams with a pipe (gas) wrench. Swivel the shaft. The cartridge should unscrew easily after such “persistent” intervention.
Joining with a tool tip: Disassembling step by step
This dismantling is done with a hammer and a pry bar made of non-ferrous metal: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, there are still hammers of this type.
The soft metal will not damage the tool in the form of dents and deformations.
It is necessary to perform the following actions:
- Hold the drill with the handle up.
- Delicately tap on the back of the chuck with a hammer all around its circumference.
- After dismantling the tool, grind the cone with a fine emery cloth. Remove large dents, if any, using a file.
- Insert the new chuck into its regular place and hammer it into place with a wooden hammer (mallet).
For older drills, made during the Soviet era, there is another way. There is a fairly large gap between the tool body and the chuck, and flats are made on the shaft.
Locksmiths, as a rule, did the following:
Of course, the method is not the safest, given that the key can fly off on an unplanned locksmith trajectory and cause injury. There is also a variety of drills, where the body is made a slot, which is inserted into the wedge for knocking chuck. These drills can be fitted with two tapers: one in the chuck and one in the drill. These tools are impressive in size and weight.
Taper drills are considered more accurate in responsible drilling because the Morse taper is made with a high degree of precision.
In addition, the tapered chuck can be removed with a puller, because every such drill, which does not even have a threaded hole for a retaining screw, has a through hole.
And if you use the puller with the central stud and place it in this hole, you can also remove the firmly attached chuck by gripping its counterpart with the hooks in the form of powerful hooks.
These tools are used to remove, for example, bearings.
Replacement in an Interskol drill
The Interskol drill is very handy and has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also a frequent reason why customers choose it.
Trouble with the clamping mechanism
Before starting work, study the instructions for working with the tool. This will help to avoid many problems. Remember that the drill is not used for milling, because the clamp can not withstand this lateral load. Choose the right drill bit, pay attention to its sharpening, mark the center of the drill (with a drill core).
Sometimes the clamp jams during disassembly. If so, disassemble the machine and make sure it is completely clean and lubricated. This is especially common after drilling holes in the ceiling, as debris falls into the clamp. If the clamp comes off, increase the tension in the cone connection. To do this, heat the assembly to 110º in the oven and then re-install it in its cold seat. Runout caused by uneven breakage of the cams or a worn tapered base is also possible. Parts need to be replaced here.
Be aware of the type of jaw when disassembling it. After completing the procedures, reassemble in the reverse order.
Removing the chuck: Makita electric screwdriver
Makita brand power tools are usually equipped with a threaded mount with an auxiliary fixation by means of a left-hand threaded screw.
- Unscrew the fixing screw (clockwise).
- activate the spindle stop button.
- Wrap a thick cloth around the body and use a vise.
- In the cams clench the hexagon.
- By hitting the free plane of the wrench with a hammer, the chuck is twisted and then removed from the shaft.
Tools for carrying out the work
Changing the drill chuck is easy, if you know the design of this unit and methods of securing it. You will need a simple set of tools to make the repair:
- Locksmith’s vise, you can use a smaller version for home use, not the standard one;
- steel hammer;
- carpenter’s mallet;
- pliers or pliers;
- A medium-sized pipe wrench;
- set of wrenches;
- sanding paper.
The list shows the minimum set, there are situations where you may need other locksmith tools.
Now there are two types of this part:
The first type has additional categories:
- double-clamp chucks. screwing and unscrewing with two hands is possible, one sleeve is held and the other one is twisted to remove the bit;
- single-fingered. all the above operations are performed with one hand, this is facilitated by the system of locking the shaft during the removal of the nozzle.
A common characteristic of the quick-clamp varieties is the change of tooling without the use of special tools.
The material from which the chuck is made:
Plastic products are lightweight, but do not have the resistance to impact. Quick-clamping variations are used both in household and production.
The cam varieties are more reliable, they have a greater impact potential, they are strong, from the disadvantages. the relative heaviness of the part.
The attachment takes place by means of:
The first fastener is named after C. А. Morse in the 19th century. The connection is made by meshing the surfaces of the shaft and cone with the bore due to the identical taper. The attachment was widely used because of its simplicity and reliability.
In the second kind of connection, the shaft and the chuck are threaded. Alignment occurs by screwing the chuck onto the shaft.
The third type is a modification of the threaded fastener. for security, the connection is fixed with a screw. It basically has a Phillips head and a left-hand thread. The screw can only be seen when the cams are fully opened.
Cartridge fit can be determined by visual inspection. Morse taper is marked as follows: 1-6 B22. The first two digits represent the shank diameter of the bit used and B22 represents the actual size of the cone.
The threaded connection is also designated by numbers and letters, for example: 1.0. 11 M12×1.25. The first part of the marking shows, again, the shank diameter of the bits used, while the second part shows the metric value of the thread. In imported electric screwdrivers, the value is indicated in inches.
How to remove a chuck with a threaded connection
The question of how to remove a chuck from the drill, which is fixed to it by means of a threaded connection, arises among home masters quite often. It is necessary to remove such a clamp taking into account that it is installed with a non-standard left-hand thread.
The threaded element of the chuck is in its inner part, so you must first widen the jaws as much as possible, which provides access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed with a normal Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply twisted from its shaft without the preparatory work described above.
The head of the fixing screw can be a cross-head, a straight head screw, a hexagonal socket or even a star screw
The left-hand threaded screw that secures the chuck to the drill can wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can perform the following steps:
Such actions will not damage the fastening assembly of the drill, but will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.
Changing the threaded chuck on the drill can also be done with a 14 wrench, which greatly facilitates this process. In order not to make mistakes when you are going to disassemble the chuck of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on the subject and watch the appropriate video.
Chuck replacement and disassembly on the drill
In the question of how to replace a worn chuck on the drill, there is nothing complicated. To do this, simply purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install the new one on it. It should be kept in mind that two types of chucks can be installed on both standard and mini-drills:
Chucks, for which a thread is used to install on the drill, are removed and fixed according to the above described scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is a threaded device, it is also important to take into account the markings that are mandatorily applied to it. Such clamping cartridges may be marked as follows:
The interval 1.5-13, present in these designations, indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool to be installed. The rules for the replacement of a chuck on the drill suggests that the new clamping device must have a marking that is completely identical to the designation of the old.
With the question of how to replace the tapered chuck on the drill, everything is somewhat simpler. The devices of this type can also be marked with different markings, namely:
To change a chuck of this type in a drill, you just need to pick up the chuck with the corresponding marking and insert its seating in the cone hole of the drilling equipment. Orientation in such a marking is simple enough: the letter “B” means that it is a chuck of the cone type, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the landing hole.
Removing the taper chuck from the drill is as easy as installing it. In order to perform such a procedure, you simply need to knock the chuck out of the mounting hole of the drill, which uses a regular hammer. With the details of installation and removal of a tapered chuck of an electric drill can also be found by watching the appropriate video.
On Soviet drills, the chuck with a cone mount was simply knocked out, the gearbox design allowed such roughness. To remove the chuck of modern models you need to use pullers or special devices
How to disassemble the chuck of an electric screwdriver or drill? Such a procedure should be periodically performed for maintenance of the device (cleaning and lubrication of all its internal elements), as well as its minor repairs. This will help to extend the life of the chuck considerably.
When disassembling the cartridge consider what type it belongs to. Guided by the instructions or video, it is necessary to perform all actions for disassembly of such a device as carefully as possible in order not to damage its constituent elements. After all maintenance or repair procedures for the drill chuck have been completed, reassemble it in reverse order.
If the structural elements are badly worn and it is impossible to restore them, it is better to replace the entire mechanism, which will be much cheaper than its repair.