How to cut outlets in the wall panel

Subplugs installation: How to install subplugs in concrete and plasterboard

The socket is not only a mandatory functional element of electrical wiring, serving to connect household appliances, but also a significant detail of the interior.

The trouble-free operation of the socket, as well as its neat appearance depends in no small measure on how competently the installation is done, do not you? To make a proper installation, it is necessary to consider a number of nuances that are present in this work, one of which is the correct installation of sub-sockets.

You have never installed a wall plug and are afraid of making a mistake? We will help to understand all the features. the article discusses in detail the types of mounting boxes and the subtleties of installation of each of them.

Attention is also paid to the installation of outlets in common types of substrates. concrete, plasterboard, tiled walls, etc. The material is complemented by pictures and useful videos.

Types and characteristics of receptacles

Today’s sockets both in appearance and mounting method are significantly different from those that were installed in Soviet-era houses.

If before they were simply embedded into the wall without the possibility of changing, today, and install them, and if necessary, change the socket, is not very difficult.

And all this thanks to Podrosocket, which, in fact, is a box that securely holds in its depths socket and also provides its fire safety.

Subrozetniki come in different shapes and sizes, different materials and methods of installation, so before you buy, you need to understand their types.

Sub-socket. Mounting device, designed for the reliable fixing of electrical installation products concealed wiring

Regardless of whether you are installing a single jack or a group of jacks, you must pre-cut the walls before installing them

When installed deep into a brick or concrete wall, these mounting boxes or flush-mounted boxes are secured with alabaster

Wall plugs in stud partitions and plasterboard walls are fixed with adjustable distance spacers

Virtually all building materials and board options used in the rough cladding of walls are suitable for the installation of wall plugs

In the range of products for concealed wiring you can find options for the arrangement of log and timber buildings

When in use, it is easier to re-tighten a loose mechanism in the jack. This makes installation quicker and more accurate

Wall plug selection according to wall material

The main criterion for choosing is the material of the walls where the wall plugs will be installed.

According to this feature there is the following classification of boxes:

  • Designs designed for installation in walls made of solid materials: concrete, reinforced concrete, aerated concrete, bricks;
  • sockets for walls made of composite materials: plasterboard, plastic board, particle board, plywood and others.

In the first case, a jack is a round container, which does not have any additional elements. It is fixed in the wall with mortar.

In its walls or bottom there are mounting holes for wiring. When installing a jack, simply remove the jumpers and squeeze out the plug.

Subrosetters with side joints allow you to quickly and easily mount two or more outlets at once

To install multiple adjacent outlets, you can use slots, the side of which is the mounting mechanism. Sub-sockets are connected to each other with special slots and combined into blocks.

In boxes for drywall boxes are special clamping plastic or metal feet designed to fix elements in hollow walls. Clamps are mounted on screws, which, by rotating, adjust their position.

Turning the screw raises or lowers the tab. The clockwise rotation brings the clamping element closer to the wall, and secures the cup in the drywall

What are the shapes of the products?

The most common are circular slots. For them it is very easy to make a hole in the wall with a variety of devices.

Round rosette can be used to mount a single socket or switch, and combine them into groups, connecting to each other through docking nodes.

Although square boxes are not used as often, but they have certain advantages. Their volume is much larger, so you can hide a lot of wires in them.

Often they are used for installation of elements of the system “clever house”. There are single and group sub-sockets of a square shape, designed to install up to five outlets.

On sale you can also find oval boxes, which, like the square ones, have a lot of internal space. They are convenient because you can connect a double socket at once. All of the above products are mounted in walls and are used to conduct concealed wiring.

There is another type of mounting boxes, which stand a bit apart. plastic overlays or multiboxes, designed for open installation on the plinth. They are designed for one or more outlets and usually have a square shape.

Outdoor receptacles have two modifications. a design with installation up to the middle of the plinth or the floor. Since multiboxes are mounted on top of the baseboard, their distinctive feature is the aesthetic appeal and original design.

The size of mounting boxes

An important parameter for mounting boxes are their dimensions, which are selected on the basis of specific installation conditions. Size fork in diameter is 60-70 mm, depth. 25-80 mm.

Standard designs have external dimensions of 45 x 68 mm, while it should be borne in mind that the inner depth in this case will be 40, and a diameter of 65 mm.

When a group installation of several circular trunk, one of them, which has increased depth, can serve in addition to its main purpose, as a junction box

Plugs larger sizes, whose depth is about 80 mm, it is advisable to apply when there is no junction box in the wiring, and its function performs itself podrosocket. As for the square products, as a rule, they are 70×70 or 60×60 mm in size.

Material of mounting boxes

The most popular are sub-sockets made of non-flammable plastic. They can be installed in concrete walls and composite structures.

The location of the outlets on the apron

Power socket in the kitchen work area is needed for appliances that stand on the countertop. Don’t forget the switches that activate the decorative light or garbage disposal. About the wiring for these consumers is better to take care of in advance.

outlets, wall, panel
  • It is most convenient to place outlets on the kitchen apron in groups of 2-3 pieces;
  • If the kitchen is large: L-shaped or U-shaped. it will be correct to place appliances with separation by type, for example, the kettle next to the coffee maker, and the multicooker next to the yogurt machine;
  • The distance from the stove and sink must be 200mm, because it will not be convenient to use the electrical point: at the sink is in the way of the tap, and over the hob decorative frame quickly soiled or charred;
  • It is better to make two blocks of two sockets at different ends of the kitchen than a single block of four.
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IMPORTANT! If you plan to install an opaque wall panel, then at the stage of measuring you can ask the master to add or subtract the number of outlets. From existing slots muted wall and pull the wire to the new electrical outlet. When installing the kitchen apron unnecessary subplugs are closed, and traces of pulling cables are hidden under the wall panel.

Preparatory work

Popular design of the kitchen. glass apron. With its help, you can visually increase the space, as well as create an atmosphere of celebration.

The glass itself has a number of positive aspects, but when installing it, it is necessary to take into account all the subtleties, among which the holes to install sockets. If you do not cut them in advance, then the installation will not be possible.

The installation process for any apron material is almost the same. First you need to prepare the tools and the surface itself:

  • you will have to work with a peorator, bits and chisels to fix the sockets;
  • to run the lines it is recommended to use a three-core cable with double insulation, diameter 2.5 mm, sub-sockets, junction box, outlets themselves 16A and above, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Determining the number of appliances, sockets and drawing a diagram, you need to transfer the data for electrical outlets directly on the wall with a pencil

It is very important to understand what the kitchen apron is made of

In tile or plywood base for installation you must carefully cut a hole. Most difficult with a glass work area. In this case, the manufacturer of the apron must give in advance the parameters according to the scheme and arrangement of appliances.

Preparatory work

Popular kitchen decoration. glass apron. With its help, you can visually increase the space, as well as create a festive atmosphere.

The glass itself has a number of positive aspects, but when installing must take into account all the subtleties, among which the holes to install the sockets. If you do not cut them in advance, then later installation will not be possible.

The installation process for any apron material is almost the same. Initially you need to prepare the tools and the surface itself:

  • To fix the outlets will have to work peoratorom, bits and chisels;
  • To draw the lines it is recommended to use a three-core cable with double insulation, diameter 2.5 mm, sub-sockets, junction box, the sockets themselves for 16A or more, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Determining the number of appliances, outlets, and drawing a diagram, you need to transfer the data for electrical outlets directly on the wall with a pencil

It is very important to understand what the kitchen apron is made of

In tile or plywood base for installation you need to carefully cut a hole. The most difficult with a glass work area. In such a case, the apron manufacturer must be given the parameters in advance according to the scheme and location of the appliances.

Height of outlets on the apron for the kitchen

The distance from the finished floor to the work surface is between 850-950mm, depending on the height of the user. The 220V socket should not be positioned close to the worktop, it would not be comfortable to use and could cause water ingress. Do not forget about the kitchen plinth. you need to leave a distance for its installation, usually 15 to 30mm. It will be a mistake to mount the outlet frame closely to the edge for the kitchen. it does not look aesthetically pleasing and causes difficulties in cleaning.

The optimum height of the sockets in the kitchen apron is 950-1050 mm from the finished floor to the center of the electrical point or a distance of 100 mm from the countertop.

IMPORTANT! Kitchen showrooms that specialize in the sale of custom-made cabinet furniture, provide a detailed layout of all the key elements of the kitchen, including recommendations for the arrangement of electrical appliances.

Height of the sockets on the kitchen panel

Competent installation of sockets on the kitchen apron provides for their location at a height of 10 to 30 cm above the kitchen worktop. If possible, you should avoid giving preference to the lowest values, because worktops are often cluttered with dishes or food, which makes it difficult to access a low socket.

  • Sockets for small appliances should be at a height of 1.1 to 1.4 m. from the floor.
  • Power sources for lights are best placed at a distance of 20 cm from the surface of the kitchen countertop.
  • The power supply for the hood should be placed at a height of 50-60 cm from the cabinets.

Rules of installation

Electrical safety standards should be adhered to when locating power sources:

outlets, wall, panel
  • The appliance to be plugged in should be within a radius of no more than one and a half meters from the socket.
  • The distance from the outlet on the apron to the floor should be one to one and a half meters.
  • Wires and contacts must be watertight.
  • It is strictly forbidden to mount outlets in the kitchen apron in the areas above the stove and sink.
  • Important! The very procedure of installation of outlets in the kitchen apron is not technically difficult, but it consists of several stages, each of which should take into account a list of nuances.

If there are doubts that it will be possible to take into account each of them, it is better to entrust the process of installation of power supplies to professionals, because mistakes in carrying out this kind of work can have dangerous consequences.

Interesting article: Features of aprons for kitchens from PVC-panels

Types and sizes of PP

Planting containers for electrical fittings produce a large number of models and modifications. Inexperienced consumer is difficult to understand this diversity. Sizes and types of subroutines are designed for different installation conditions. SW are made of durable and non-combustible plastic. PVC and polypropylene. These materials have high dielectric properties and can be processed with cutting tools. Plasticity allows to make products of complex geometry and different colors.

According to the form there are 4 types of plastic boxes:

Cylindrical boxes are used mainly for fixing in them the fittings of switches and sockets of point location. Oval boxes are an elongated ellipse, they are placed several points of connection to the power grid. Rectangular sockets are used to locate low-voltage fittings for connecting plugs of TV, radio and high-tech equipment.

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A separate group of receptacle boxes are block elements. Basically, they are round boxes, which have side ledges, entering one into the other two boxes. This feature allows you to connect junction boxes with each other in blocks of any number of elements. This solution eliminates the need to use multi-socket extensions.

Dimensions

Plastic glasses around the perimeter of the opening have a rim. It is needed to stop in the wall surface. ID are characterized by external and internal diameter. Outer size Podrosetnik (on a border) can be 68. 71 mm. The inside diameter ranges from 60 to 66 mm. For different manufacturers sizes podrosetnikov on concrete can vary slightly. However, they are all designed for standard socket and switch fixtures. Standard dimensions of the mounting box are 60×45 mm, where the first number is the inside diameter, and the second digits indicate the depth of the cup.

Inside the box at an equal distance from each other made 2 or 4 longitudinal reinforcements, in which screwed small screws. After installing the jack in the concrete wall, the self-tapping screw heads are threaded through the holes of the terminal block. Screws are screwed in up to the stop, fixing the fixture inside the cage.

In addition to the standard height. 45 mm, the industry produces podrosetniki depth of 60 to 80 mm. Buried sockets are used as dispenser boxes. It gives an opportunity to place in one container a large number of connecting components of the electric network.

Install a group of point (single) PRs taking into account that the distance between their centers will be equal to 71 mm. In case of block studs take into account the length of connecting elements of 5. 6 mm.

How to install a socket in a concrete wall

The concrete base is one of the strongest bases of the wall cladding. Vertical panels are reinforced concrete slabs. If the plaster layer (2. 3 cm) allows you to hide the wires in its mass, you will need to drill concrete to make a landing place. And for this you will need a special tool.

outlets, wall, panel

Do not trust the advice on how to fix the socket in a concrete wall with a drill and drill bit with pobeditovym tip, or worse yet do the work with a chisel and hammer. This can be advised by people who have never done it with their own hands. “Stubborn concrete is only suitable for the torator.

The tool

Making an opening in a concrete wall for a single seat without the help of a torch can take a full day of laborious and dusty work. A universal power tool equipped with a drill bit or a special drill bit can quite easily cope with small and deep holes in peotation mode. Anyone who lives in the apartment can operate the lever easily. If you don’t have a tool in the household, you rent one.

You can make a lot of holes with a drill bit and knock out concrete with a chisel, but it is best done with a drill bit with diamond bits or pobedite teeth. They are equipped with drills that center the entrance of the cutting tool into the mass of concrete. If the reinforcement of reinforced concrete wall prevents further penetration, it can be cut through with an old used drill bit.

The level will be necessary for marking the horizontal line of the socket group. A pencil and a ruler will be needed for marking.

Marking

Determining the position of switches and sockets is regulated by the Electric Appliance Installation Regulations (EAR). Outlets in living areas must be placed at least 30 cm from the floor. For light switches this dimension is a minimum of 90 cm. Distribution boxes must not be closer to window or door openings than 10 cm. Connecting points to the electric network are located at a distance of not less than 50 cm from the gas pipes.

Marking subroutines on the wall is done after summing up the hidden wiring. The points of the centers of the landings are combined in one line for the trimmer. It is drawn with a pencil or marker under the level. In the case of a single outlet socket, the distance between the points will be 71 mm. If the outlets are combined into one unit, you must add the length of the intermediate elements, that is, the distance between the centers will be 71 mm 6 mm = 77 mm. This is not a dogma. It is better to check the dimensions with a ruler yourself.

How to make a socket on the kitchen apron

On the kitchen apron is better to install indoor outlets that will not protrude over the countertop

Depending on the style and design of the kitchen, the outlet on the apron can be internal or overhead. The choice depends on the material of the walls, the size of the room and the priorities of the hostess.

To make an internal socket, you need to make a hole even before installing the panel and walled in the socket. After that, a block with terminals and contacts is fixed in it. To put the external cover in the apron, a hole is made in the form of terminals.

The standard installation of overhead products is to pre-fix a bracket in the wall to fix the body. To do this, a wooden bar is used, secured in the niche. To fix the socket is made 3 holes. for the cable outlet and screws.

The best option is the internal installation. So the products will not protrude over the countertop, and appliances and fixtures can be placed flush to the wall.

How to cut a hole for the outlet on the kitchen apron

It is easiest to make holes in fiberboard. To do this, use a sharp knife, hand or electric jigsaw. After sawing the edges must be treated with any sealing substance to protect them from moisture.

In ceramic tiles the holes can be made with a diamond drill, a hand torch or a string after pre-drilling the contour.

The most difficult to work with glass. Independently make a hole in a tempered material is almost impossible. It is advisable to include this procedure in the order to produce an apron at the firm. To do this, you need to measure and calculate everything accurately to achieve a complete overlap of holes and wires.

Step-by-step connection algorithm

Mounting the sockets on the kitchen panel is done in the following sequence.

Before switching on the voltage, it is necessary to visually inspect the circuitry once again to exclude the possibility of a short circuit.

Additional recommendations

Outlets can overheat during operation, causing oxidation of contacts and terminals, burning wires. In order not to turn off the entire apartment for the period of repair, it is advisable to equip the line for the trimmer own packet switch for 16-25A. This device will prevent the possibility of a short circuit.

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A good solution is to install switches with concealed wiring to control low-power devices. an extractor hood, lamp, toaster, multicooker.

When installing outlets to choose the most convenient places for use and comply with safety rules. It is advisable to choose such a height of the devices so that they provide maximum comfort of use in a variety of situations. If the kitchen has a large area, power sources need to be installed at intervals of no more than 100 cm. This will give the hostess full freedom of action.

Height of outlets on the apron for the kitchen

The distance between the floor and the worktop is between 850-950mm, depending on the height of the user. Socket 220V can not be placed close to the countertop, it will not be convenient to use it and it can lead to water ingress. Do not forget about the kitchen baseboard. to install it, you must leave a distance, usually 15 to 30mm. It will be a mistake to mount the outlet frame closely to the edge for the kitchen. it does not look aesthetically pleasing and causes difficulties in cleaning.

Before installing the outlets, it is recommended to make a marking on the wall The beginning of the process of electrifying the kitchen is the drawing up of a project, making calculations and purchasing all the necessary.

The following tools and materials will be needed for the work:

  • Peorator, angle grinder, soldering iron;
  • pliers, wire cutters, knife;
  • screwdriver;
  • A tape measure, a spirit level;
  • copper cable VVGng-Ls 3×4mm²;
  • trowel, putty;
  • corrugated plastic tube.

Drilling the tiles for the socket Preparation of the substrate is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Markings are placed on the walls. Lines are made only in vertical and horizontal directions. Mark the places where there will be outlets and mounting boxes.
  • Using an angle grinder and a stylus to make slots and holes for glasses.
  • Plastic tubes are placed in the grommets with the cable prewired inside. After that the grooves are filled with putty.

Continue the work after the mortar has fully set. To avoid subsequent scraping, the mortar should be laid so that it does not form a convex layer after curing.

How to make a socket on the kitchen apron

On the kitchen apron is better to install the internal sockets, which will not stand out over the countertop Depending on the style and design of the kitchen apron outlet can be internal or surface. The choice depends on the material of the walls, the size of the room and the priorities of the hostess.

To make an internal socket, you need to make a hole even before installing the panel and walled in the sleeve. After that the block with terminals and contacts is fixed in it. To put an external cover in the apron, a hole is made in the shape of the terminals.

The standard mounting of overhead products is to pre-mount the bracket in the wall to fix the housing. To do this, you use a wooden bar to fix it in the recess. To fix the socket is made 3 holes. for the cable outlet and screws.

The best option is the internal installation. This way the products will not protrude over the countertop, and appliances and fixtures can be placed flush to the wall.

How to cut a hole for the outlet on the kitchen apron

It is the easiest way to make holes in the wooden board. A sharp knife, a hand or an electric jigsaw is used for this. After sawing the edges must be treated with any sealing agent to protect them from moisture.

In ceramic tiles the holes can be made with a diamond drill, a hand torch or a string after pre-drilling the contour.

The most difficult to work with glass. It is almost impossible to make a hole in the hardened material yourself. It is advisable to include this procedure in the apron fabrication order at the company. To do this, it is necessary to measure and calculate everything accurately to achieve full alignment of the holes and wires.

Step by step connection algorithm

Mounting the sockets to the kitchen panel is performed in the following sequence.

  • The cable strands are stripped and tin-soldered.
  • The cable ends are inserted into junction boxes and pads. They are tightened. The quality of the contacts is checked by pulling the wires.
  • The shoe is fastened. In the tank, it is fixed by screwing in the bolts that regulate the position of the legs. Insert the plug in and out of the terminal block several times to make sure it is securely fastened.
  • Fastening the outer cover. The room is de-energized, the cable is connected to the mains.

Drilling holes in the tile

Hole punching in the tile

Drilling holes under the tiles

Putting the cable into the junction box

Installing the junction box and outlets

Inserting plugs into the concrete wall

Before turning on the voltage, you need to visually inspect the circuit once again to rule out the possibility of a short circuit.

Soundproofing of the sockets

Neighboring apartments with exactly the same layout are often installed through sockets that conduct not only noise but also unpleasant odors. Such holes must be charmingly insulated. We will tell you how to do this in this section. Often one of three methods is used for this purpose:

The first option is considered the most rational and simplest. It is realized by itself in the organization of repair work, when the owner himself arranges the equipment for his own convenience.

Special insulating substrate is purchased in electrical stores, but to install it, agree on a schedule of work with your neighbors and, if possible, carry out the same work on the insulation on their side for better protection from noise.

After installing the insulation, you can also take care of the installation of another outlet housing design. overhead. This option will create another soundproofing layer.

General recommendations for patching holes in walls

To perform the restoration of the defect after the removal of the socket in the wall, you need a minimum of skills, as well as compliance with several useful recommendations:

  • Be sure to clean the holes and remove any kind of debris and easily detachable particles from them;
  • before grinding the blocked hole, wait for the mortar to dry completely, not only on the outside, but also inside the gap;
  • if the damage is small in diameter and the mortar is difficult to penetrate into it, it is slightly enlarged for convenience and efficiency of filling the space.

Usually after caulking the holes from the dismantled electrical points, these partitions are not loaded with anything. It is best not to nail shelves or any kind of décor to these areas.